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We are right on the D-Day beaches and now is just perfect. There are three long weekends in May in France which can be a bit hectic with the Parisians having a quick break here, but the weekdays are fine. From early June through to September is really busy - i.e., from D-Day onwards and its super busy from 14 July (Bastille Day - opening of the summer season) through to the first week of September which is re-entree (back to school week). So May (weekdays) and October are both the shoulder times when the weather isn't too cold but the crowds are manageable - particularly if you're going to head to Mont St Michel too. Everything is open (the gardens open the first week of May).